About the Author: Ardell DellaLoggia
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- Saturday, July 04 2009
This one is from Athol’s Bad MLS photo list called “Nuclear Blast window effect”, but he doesn’t give advices as to how the agent should have conteracted that problem.
Some of the better view photos I see (and have done) are done later in the day, just before twilight, so that the depth of color outside is greater. Since this is a western view though , it would be an morning photo for richer color. You might want to try it again in the morning and see if you can get a better shot to work with.
There is a professional photographer, Aaron Leitz who does AMAZING twilight water view photos. He wrote a post about it: http://activerain.com/blogsview/40344/Everything-Looks-Better-at
Bright overcast days can make for good photos to include the outdoor landscaping through a window, but not for water views
Sunny days are “Nuclear Blast Days” for trying to take interior photos looking out a window unless you have a lot of lighting equipment, good camera and post touch up. There is just too much contrast between inside and outside, something has to give.
Ardell,
If possible, you can meter your camera to properly expose for the outside, and then use flash to “fill in” the interior. However, watch out for overexposing anything in the foreground.
Mark
Thanks for the ideas. I just looked for the condo with the absolute best photography of any MLS listing I have ever seen The property flyer was so great that I’ve saved it.
I showed the property, but the photography was SO good, that the actual property paled in comparison and was a huge let down.
The property never sold and the listing was cancelled.
I don’t like photography that makes the rooms appear to be much bigger than they are. But I sure wish the views would look near as good as they do in person viewing.
You could take a photo of the inside at the right exposure and another with the outside at the right exposure, then use photo editing software (Photoshop, etc) to blend them together into one good photo.
I’m not a pro photographer so when this problem occured for me I asked my friend who is and he showed me a neet little trick. It does involve two flash units. One is referred to as a slave and has a gizmo that triggers it when the main flash on my camera fires. A small tripod supports the slave which I hide out of focus except for the little gizmo. Caveat: this method is not for everybody but since I had second old flash unit (they go cheap as second hand product at your local camera shop) it works wonders. Since my photo taking skills equate a bag of rusty nails I use fully automatic settings on the camera and the slave flash as well. It’s never let me down. Hope this helps.
Hi Ardell,
if it makes you feel any better, this is very common and even pros struggle with this issue. The problem is the great big ball of fire in the sky is very very bright lighting up outside, and the inside of the room is not so bright. The camera has to equalize the light balance and you tend to get a darkish room and a very bright blown out window.
Multiple ways to work on this problem.
Option 1. Carry a crapload of lighting gear and light up the inside of the room. This does help a good deal, but even then SUN > all your lights combined.
Option 2. Shoot when it is less bright outside. I.e. overcast day, or twilight. This is the easy way!
Option 3. Cut and paste editing. Use a tripod and shoot two photos from exactly the same position. One with the camera on a higher exposure setting, one on a lower one. Then in editing cut the window out of the lower exposure shot, and paste it over the windows on the higher exposure shot. This is unbelievebly hard to do unless you have the hands of a heart surgeon.
Option 4. Selective editing on a single photo. Select everything other than the window areas of the photo. Then increase the light in the photo. Usually there is a selection toggle you can use to do this. i.e. select the window area vs everything but the window area.
Option 5. HDR. Stands for High Dynamic Range. Similar to the cut and paste editing techinque, you set the tripod up and then take multiple photos at a variety of exposure settings. Then using HDR software you make a final alignment of the photos and combine the multiple images into a single image with the full color spread. This tends to create a slighty artifical look to the photo. I’ve had some great results from it, and total bombs.
Option 6. Like Mark suggested, get a light reading to properly expose for the windows and then flash fill the interior. In editing your software may even have an option called “Flash Fill” or something similar.
Option 7. In editing if you start fiddling with the brightness histrogram stuff you can pull up the darker areas of the photo and leave the brighter ones the same.
Generally speaking the pros split up into those that like to set up a lot of lights, and those that like to use heavy duty software. (HDR images can take a couple minutes processing time for example) No real right or wrong answer.
Practically speaking what works great for exterior shooting sucks for interior shooting, and vice a versa. Sometimes you just have to go back and reshoot.
Thanks Larry,
Like that slave flash idea and nice blog!
Athol,
I like your #4 suggestion. Is photoshop the best program to lighten a portion of the photo? I don’t like to use photoshop for real estate photography as there is too much room for faking out the public. I have always used HP Imagezone, but I definitely need to upgrade.
Suggestions for editing software?
LHR,
That method may work fairly well for this house since the opening should be fairly easy to cut in and out.
P.S. That was an overcast day, as you can see from the color of Lake Washington in the photo from the door shot at the end.
[photopress:john_1.jpg,thumb,alignright]I took the original view shots on a beautiful day and went back on an overcast day for the interior shots. But still looks pretty washed out. I’d rather use the non-overcast view shot edited into the room shot.
But isn’t that cheating in the fooling the public sense somewhat?
Hmmm can’t get the other view shot in here. I’ll try putting it into the post.
There are plenty of software tools to edit. Photoshop is of course the heavyweight in that market. I use Paintshop Pro X2 simply because of the cost is cheaper. Never actually used Photoshop myself.
There are major ethical problems in editing out negative material facts like foundation cracks, leaning walls, lamposts and wires, other nearby houses etc. But we are in no way responsible for any future weather in the location of the home though. We’re selling a home, not sunny days.
Mostly what real estate editing is trying to do to is recreate an image of what the eye actually sees when standing in the home. I bet when you were inside the home the windows didn’t look blow out to your eyes no matter how bright the day.
Basically eyes+brain = most awesome camera and image processor known to man.
We’re not cheating consumers, we’re trying to create something natural looking and appealing as possible. People are very image smart, and can generally spot fakes.
Nice view, Ardell! I can’t wait to see what it looks like when you get it done!
I’m a view person and views just take my breath away in person. Photos just don’t do them justice.
Any tips on better view shots, especially water views? I stand up on my deck and the view is awesome. I click a photo and it’s so ho hum. Maybe it’s the size of the “picture” in real live, like a movie screen vs. TV.
Athol,
You’re right. No camera can do reality justice. Our eyes+brains as you say are better than any camera. Sounds and the breeze and the total experience is just not dupicable.
And yet some people will look at a room and not even notice the view. Seems not everyone is as susceptible to view as I am. I love my clients who are. We have great fun together.
Courtney,
Who do you use for staging? I went to CORT and picked out the bedroom suite, but the living room is a challenge. Andy Capelluto is going to stop by on her hourly fee consult when she’s done with her cold.
Do you have a stager you use for older Seattle homes?
Thanks Ardell, coming from a pro blogger I appreciate the warm fuzzy.
LOL, Larry. I think that’s the first time someone paid me that particular compliment. Dustin’s generally the in house “warm fuzzy” guy around here. Be careful. You’ll ruin my rep.
[...] Ardell had a question… [...]
What camera are you using? Many compact cameras have an option for “vivid” or something along those lines. Won’t help the washed out window, but may help on the view shots. If you’re not using a compact, you may have a hot shoe for an external flash on top of the camera and even an entry level flash bounced off the ceiling will even out the room color (the bouncing adds warmth) while still allowing you to see out the windows.
For post-production, Photoshop can’t be beat. But if you’re looking for something to fix these types of basic things, it may be a bit much, both in features and price. Photoshop Elements may allow you to do these things, but it’s been a few versions since I’ve used it, so I’m not 100% on that.
Simple (for those of us who grew up on Photoshop) touch-ups like this from time to time may even be in the realm of something a fellow blogger may do as a courtesy…
Most of the pictures on the MLS that solve this problem of “sunny outside, dark inside” use HDR photography. This stands for High Dynamic Range. Basically, the camera film/sensor is UNABLE to work with the large range of light levels that are present in these shots. There is very little, if anything, you can do in Photoshop with a single exposure.
In short, HDR photography works by using multiple exposures of the same scene. Imagine two exposures are used (although it’s usually more). One exposure shows you the inside of the house, but the windows are “blown out” and white because it’s so bright outside. The other exposure allows for the outside, but the inside is dark because it’s under exposed. HDR processing in photoshop (or other programs) allows you to blend these photos into one.
Too many photographers overuse this technique and you end up with photos that look awful, overly contrasty, and so on.
Do a search on Flickr.com for “hdr” and look at the results, good and bad… There are also numerous tutorials out there that help you do this. Basic tools:
-Digital SLR (or decent compact) that will “bracket” multiple shots with different shutter-speed, keeping aperture the same.
-Photoshop (or another tool specifically for the job)
-(optional but recommended) Tripod
I use two or three different cameras, but they are all pocket sized digital cameras. These were taken with the Lumix previously recommended here by Galen. My sister is a photo buff and uses tripods and better equipment. I think I’ll take her over to this house and see what she can do with it if her schedule permits. It’s her busy season.
She once took an awesome shot of Martina N. from way up in the cheap seats at the Olympics. Not sure how she is on capturing views.
Actually some of the pocket sized digital cameras seem better than many SLRs for real estate photography. I’ll keep nagging you to try a wider angled lens until you either convert or one of us is dead
Lens > Software > Lighting > Tripod > Camera
That my opinion of course, but pretty much the order I’d buy upgrades in.
Possible point and shoot choices would be the Kodak v570 and the one I use is the Canon PowerShot SD800
The SD800 shoots at a fixed 28mm length which is overall a nice balance between your 35mm lenses and the ultra-wide funhouse mirror lenses “pro” shooters use.
Join us on the dark… er well lit… side Ardell.
A possible limitation of this approach is that you have to be aware of MLS rules about advertising other peoples’ listings if you use this formula, so you may want to talk it over with your broker first. On the other hand, most listing agents would undoubtedly give you permission if you call them.
Oh My God, Athol!!! You know I’m running out to get that wide angle lens…by Wed for sure!
Can’t wait until one of us is DEAD! LOL!
I did get a Flip Video Camera
I can record and have. But don’t know how to get it onto the internet yet.
I WILL get the wide angle lens but I WON’T post MLS photos that make the room appear larger than it really is.
This house has a galley kitchen…tips? They are a bitch.
BTW Athol, you can “pimp me” anytime.
RealEstateMaster,
Could be because I’m running out the door…but you totally lost me regarding “other people’s listings”. Where was anyone talking about someone else’s listing? I’ll check back when I get to my office, maybe I missed something.
Are you on the right post thread RealEstateMaster?
Galley Kitchens – not trying to belabor the point, but the wider angle lens basically solves the problem of getting both sides of the kitchen into the single shot. We only get 10 photos on the CTMLS, so I really cannot spare two photo slots for the kitchen when it can be done in one.
The other thing to do is try and get the room/area behind the kitchen well lit so it doesn’t look bleak back there, plus it keeps the light balance better in the kitchen itself.
I’m glad to see you moving towards wide angle. That would be easier for both of us.
Hi Ardell,
I use a professional photographer that does exactly what the Seattle prospective buyer is talking about. He takes three photos of the same room and merges them together. This way the photo actually shows what you see outside, rather than a white blast of light. His name is Bill Johnson and if you want his contact information, I can get it for you.
Great photography. But the rooms look twice as big as they really are. I’m not sure I can handle that, Debra. I would like to hire a professional photographer. But I don’t want a 12 X 10 foot room to look like it’s 24 x 20 in the photos.
Realestatemaster,
I can’t ask “my broker”. I AM my broker
If I talk it over with my broker they will bring out the little white coat that ties my arms behind my back.
Still can’t figure out what you are talking about though.
Maybe I can put a disclaimer “objects appear larger than they are in real life”.
Write the room dimensions on the photo itself.
That’s a joke, right Athol? Talk about bad mls photo of the week. I’ll just scribble over all the pictures “this house that looks like it is 40 feet wide was shot with a wide angle lens and is really a small to middlin rambler. What did you expect 1,350 square feet to LOOK like?”
Actually I’m serious. In one of the corners just have the room dimensions in small numbers. eg “Master 15×12″, or just “15×12″.
Personally I wouldn’t do it, but it may help you.
May be you should try a video to support the photos
I think Galen said to get a wide angle lens that isn’t too dramatic. I hate when a room looks like it’s 8×20 and sticking 12 x 14 in the corner isn’t going to solve that problem.
But hey, I’m getting the wide angle Athol and I’m giving it a try…cause I said I would. Let’s see what happens.
Hello,
My name is Harley Lever and I am a professional real estate photographer. I prefer to use the cut and paste described in #4 and only because of the quality it produces. The trade-off is the time. To create a visually perfect image often takes up to an hour per image.
I have used “image-merge” options on my Nikon D200 before but often reflections get dull down the view.
I use a tripod and take a picture of the perfectly illuminated room. I then shut off all the lights and solely concentrate on exposing the external view. You end up having two perfect pictures you can now create into one. I used to only cut and paste the windows in, but found that time consuming and tricky. Now, I use a combination of the “Magic Wand Tool” and the “Eraser”.
You can see some of the results here: http://www.harleyseye.com/Real_Estate_Photography.htm
Thanks Harley. I LIKE. I’ll give you a call.
There is a really good software program called Photomatix. It will combine three exposures to create an HDR photo. I use it often with great results. I have a camera that has a setting to “bracket”–it takes three exposures, one normal, then one over- and one under-exposed two stops.
Here’s an example (usually either the house would have been too underexposed, or the sky would have been way overexposed, but HDR keeps both in a good visual range), http://www.flickr.com/photos/hiester/233631980/
get photomatix at http://www.hdrsoft.com/
Thanks Chris! I’ve tried this software and it’s been pretty useful and good to use
Cheers,
Ralph
http://www.iproperty.com.sg
Great tips. Thanks for the advice guys!